A Walk Around Kyushu
Sogi no Taki to Kyomachi Onsen
Friday November 22nd, 2013
I awoke in a dense fog. I'm not referring to the state of my mind, but to the thick mist that filled the river valley and left a coat of moisture over my bag and everything else. The warm glow of the solitary streetlamp in front of the shrine was swallowed up by the fog and barely visible. Above the layer of mist it was probably getting light. I headed off in search of a vending machine with hot coffee. Visibility extended only 20 meters. The first section of today's walk would be along the river so I should be able to navigate it without the reassurance of orienting myself to the landscape.
It was silent and dreamlike and I felt isolated from everything but the road beneath my feet. After an hour or two the fog becomes bright, almost pure white, though still impenetrable, then I catch a glimpse of a white disc above the hills. The sun is up. I am going to cross the river at some point and so I have been counting bridges to find the right one.
According to my map I should have found the bridge by now, so begin to worry that I have passed it. A small kei car comes along and I put out my arm to flag it down. The middle-aged woman driving stares at me and then steps on the accelerator and speeds away with a look of terror on her face. I wouldn't be surprised to have a police car stop me in the next twenty minutes. I have had people phone the police on me before for the suspicious activity of walking while being foreign.
A few minutes later a small pick up comes by and the fearless old gentleman driving tells me that I have passed the bridge. I retrace my steps and cross over the river and finally some blue sky is visible and I can see the landscape of the wide river valley. As I walk away from the river it becomes completely clear to reveal a cloudless sky.
I pass a couple of Tanokami statues. This area is famous for them, and they are a pleasant change from the more typical Jizo. I get into Hishikari, the only town on my route today and find a supermarket to replenish my stomach and supplies. So far today its all been flat along the river, but from here I have to cross over some higher country.
The road is a narrow, winding, mountain lane, with very little traffic. After an hour it gets steeper and I look down on a huge expanse of steel roof. Some sort of factory farm, though not a sound comes from it so I don't know if its chicken or pig or cow.
Japan, and particularly southern Kyushu raises a lot of meat, but you will almost never see any animals outside in the sunshine. It is almost all raised indoors. The road levels off and then starts a slow descent and I get my first glimpse of the Ebino Valley below with the Kirishima Mountains behind. Ten walking days ago I was on the other side of those mountains. I reach the valley floor and once again walk along the Sendai River.
By late afternoon I reach Kyomachi Onsen and look in the quiet back streets for my room for the night. I find the Yamaga Onsen and check in for the night. The couple running the hot spring, which caters mostly to locals, are sitting in their living room with the sliding doors open so they can do business with their patrons.
Everybody wants to chat. I suspect I may be the first foreigner they have had stay here. Everyone is very friendly and when I mention that I am interested in seeing the local Tanokami the owner promptly invites me into his car and he drives me a few kilometers out of town where a lot of the Tanokami have been gathered together in one spot. A good end to the day, especially when considering that the room I stay in tonight is only 2,200 yen.
A Walk Around Kyushu Day 37
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