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Tuesday, May 22, 2007

Kawadoko (outdoor deck) Dining, Kyoto

川床、京都

Kyoto is unique among Japanese cities in that it has embraced its rivers. It has not avoided the Ministry of Construction-sponsored concreting of its waterways; however, unlike Tokyo and Osaka and other cities, Kyoto never turned away from its waters.

The Kamogawa River, which flows through central Kyoto, is where Kyotoites go to play and enjoy, romance and dine. From just south of the downtown area all the way north of Imadegawa Street, the river banks are thronged with people.

kyoto kawadokoLovers sit at intervals a stone's throw from the bars and nightlife of Shijo and Sanjo. Young mothers bring their children to play in the shallow waters near Imadegawa. Medical students relax and play tennis behind the Kyoto Prefectural Hospital.

And, from early May until September, residents and tourists eat and drink on decks set up overlooking the river.

Restaurants along Pontocho and, farther north and south, Kiyamachi face the Kamogawa River. From about Gojo (fifth street) up until Oike, all restaurants have decks erected out the back of their buildings and facing the river.

Some set up tables with chairs, others lay out goza mats and have low tables around which customers sit on the floor and eat.

The deck pictured above was photographed from the west side of Shijo-Ohashi (fourth street bridge) at sunset before the decks filled up. The restaurants are situated along Pontocho. In the distance are the mountains, and to your right is Gion.

Access

The restaurants are all accessible from Pontocho, which is a narrow alley full of bars and restaurants that runs from Shijo-Ohashi up almost to Sanjo Street, or Kiyamachi south of Shijo and north of Sanjo. Shijo-Ohashi is a one-minute walk from the Hankyu train's Kawaramachi Station, or Keihan train's Shijo Station.

Details

Unless you go just as restaurants are opening, at 6, it is highly advisable to have reservations. On weekends in mid-summer, it can be very difficult to get in.

Japanese Goods - Goza Mats

Japanese Art - byobu screens

Japanese Art Books

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